Exploring ancient ruins in Thailand

On our way, to Chiang Mai, we made two stops to visit the ancient ruined capital cities of Thailand, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. 

Map of Thailand showing Ayutthaya and Sukhothai (image from Lonely Planet)

WARNING: Quick history lesson

The Khmer Empire controlled most of Southeast Asia from 802 CE until 1431. This area included what is now Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and some of Myanmar and Vietnam. However, in 1238 the chief of Sukhothai declared independence from the Khmer Empire and established the Kingdom of Sukhothai (literally translating to "Dawn of Happiness"). Soon after, the Thai alphabet was created and Thai historians believe that the Sukhothai Period (1238-1438) was is the beginning of modern Thailand. 

Map of the area ruled by The Khmer Empire (image from Asienreisender)

In later years, a small city south of Sukhothai, called Ayutthaya, became politically and economically powerful. The Kingdom of Ayutthaya developed, and eventually merged with Sukhothai; thus began the Ayutthaya Period (1350-1767). In 1351, the capital of the Khmer Empire, Angkor, was taken by the King of Ayutthaya, signifying the beginning of the end of the Khmer rule. Increased local power and wealth, and established trade routes with the West, encouraged Ayutthaya to grow into the largest city in the world in 1700 CE, with a population of approximately one million people.

Dutch drawing of Ayutthaya

During the mid 16th century, the Burmese attacked Ayutthaya. An "on-again-off-again" Burmese-Siamese War continued for a few hundred years until the Burmese eventually gained control of Ayutthaya and a substantial amount of modern-day Thailand. However, the Burmese were quickly pushed back when a military leader of Chinese descent, called Taksin, who created a new state of Thailand with a capital in Thonburi (now Bangkok). Unfortunately, after reunifying the five broken states of Thailand, King Taksin went mad, and in 1782, a military coup led to his replacement (and execution). This was lead by General Chakri, who was made the king (King Rama I). A new capital was made across the river in Bangkok, where the Grand Palace now stands.

Sunset view of Wat Mahathat from our accommodation

On the 16th of March, we departed Hua Lamphong train station in Bangkok and arrived in Ayutthaya 1 hour and 45 minutes later. The train fare was only 39 baht each (NZ $1.60), so we had hardly dented our daily budget of 740 baht per day when we arrived in Ayutthaya. Unfortunately, tuk-tuk rides are not so cheap, and we ended up spending 120 baht (NZ $5) to get to our accommodation 15 minutes away. However, once we arrived all idiocracies of travel costs were forgotten; we were staying in a bohemian style villa (The Sixty at Ayutthaya) across the road from the great ruin of Wat Mahathat. 

Ruins of Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat, which translates to "temple of the great relic", is one of the most impressive ruins in the Ayutthaya Historical Park, and as it was across the road from our accommodation, we decided to have a look around there first. Within this complex, there were many stupas and decapitated Buddha images (the Burmese were not interested in maintaining Ayutthaya when they sacked the city and almost burnt it to the ground). When one of the decapitated Buddha heads fell, it became caught in the roots of a tree and is now one of the most famous sites in the whole Ayutthaya complex. 

Buddha's head caught in tree roots at Wat Mahathat

A Buddha image in Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat in the evening

Over the two full days that we were in Ayutthaya, we wandered freely through the red brick ruins of temples and palaces. It was amazing to sit amongst the ruins and imagine how beautiful Ayutthaya would have looked when the royal family resided there, as well as the smell and sight of one million commoners going about their day. 

Walking around the Ayutthaya Historical Park

Exploring the ruins of Wat Phra Si Sanphet in the old Royal Palace

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Some friendly dogs inside the Historical Park

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Three of the most impressive complexes were: Wat Phra Si Sanphet, which was a temple and the Royal Palace; Wat Mahathat, the most impressive and important temple; and Wat Chaiwatthanaram, which was a forest temple sitting on the opposite bank to the Ayutthaya island.

Decapitated Buddha images at Wat Chaiwatthanaram

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

Buddha images looking towards the river from Wat Chaiwatthanaram

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

We had also planned our time in Ayutthaya to coincide with the annual Muay Thai festival. Muay Thai is a combat sport that was developed in Ayutthaya during the Burmese wars in the 16th century. A famous fighter called Nai Khanomtom was captured by the Burmese in 1767, but managed to win his freedom following a series of fights; he is now recognised as a hero and celebrated during the festival.

Nai Khanomtom statue at the Ayutthaya Muay Thai festival

These guys were cool. They ate snails in the waterways that ran through
The Ayutthaya Historical Park

When we planned our trip to Ayutthaya, we had no idea what the Muay Thai festival would be like. We had hoped to see an example of Muay Thai fighting, even if it meant splashing out and spending a little extra money to buy some tickets. 

We were in luck! 

There was an open air boxing ring that had free ringside seats and 4 hours of continuous Muay Thai fights by top international fighters. It was hard not to get caught up in the atmosphere of the arena. Although we have had no previous interest in fighting sports, we found the fights exciting and captivating to watch. The crowd of Thais shouting out bets and cheering with each powerful kick or punch encouraged unfamiliar tourists and spectators, such as ourselves, to become absorbed into the atmosphere of the fight. 

The female fights were first

The male fights were usually won by the Thai fighter

One of the fight champions

A dance and show were put on for the Thai and international Muay Thai fighters to show the history of Muay Thai.
There elephants in the show and used for tourist rides around the historical park

We highly recommend visiting Ayutthaya during the Muay Thai festival! It was an exhilarating cultural and historical experience, and there is also the bonus of free entry to all temple complexes in the Ayutthaya Historical Park during the festival period. As Ayutthaya is under two hours away from Bangkok, it is often suggested as a day trip by some tour companies. However, the stunning sunsets and the night market are worth staying the night for, and you need a few days to explore the ruins at a leisurely pace.

Noodle soup at the night market! Check out the Food and Markets blog coming soon!

We got caught in the rain on our way home

Goodbye Ayutthaya

After a few days in Ayutthaya, we caught the train to Phitsanulok. Well...actually, we didn't check the timetable the night before and missed the cheaper, earlier train due to an extended sleep in, and had to buy a ticket on the express train for four times the price.

On our way to Sukhothai via Phitsanulok

Free meal on the train Phitsanulok.
Microwaved Malaysian fish curry, marinated chicken (similar to cat food), and rice.

Once we made it to Phitsanulok, we took a one hour bus to Sukhothai. Since we were halfway through our time in Thailand, we decided that a relaxed day was in order. We spent a day beside the pool, and in the evening, treated ourselves to some rather potent $4 cocktails on the balcony of a nearby bar. 

An almighty Whisky Sour

Our second day in Sukhothai was spent exploring the ruins of the ancient capital city. Compared to Ayutthaya, the ruined city of Sukhothai is older, has fewer tourists, and is more spread out (193 ruins in 70 square kilometres). Due to its size and the 40 ˚C heat, the best way to see Sukhothai is by bicycle. We hired two bicycles for 30 baht each (NZ $1.25) and explored the ruins and nearby countryside.

Dennis on his bike

Erin's bike

Similar to Ayutthaya, Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai is the most impressive and famous ruin and was the principal temple of the region. The main stupa of Wat Mahathat was built in 1345 to contain relics of Buddha and has two 9 meters tall Buddha images standing either side. 

Dennis at Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai

Looking small next to a 9 m tall Buddha at Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai

Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai

The main hall of Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai

Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai

We also visited Wat Si Sawai, which is the oldest temple in Sukhothai, presumably built in the late 12th century or early 13th century. Although it was originally built as a Hindu shrine with Khmer architectural influences, it was renovated by the Thai peoples into a Buddhist temple in the 14th century. 

Wat Si Sawai with its three impressive and decorative prangs

An elephant Wat

After biking around the central complex, we left the main Sukhothai walls and explored the farm lands and ruins to the west. It was so hot that the wind felt like an electric fan heater, and inconveniently, we ran out of water for a while. After some rest and ice cold water at a roadside restaurant, we biked back to the main park entrance and caught the bus back to our "resort".

Biking through the countryside

A cow at a farm we passed

The "bus" that took us to and from Old Sukhothai

Overall, exploring the ruins of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai felt like stepping back in time. We were impressed with how well maintained the ruins were and how much freedom we were given to wander through them. Watching the Muay Thai fights was an added bonus in Ayutthaya and gave us a different cultural insight to the ruins. 

Note: Temple jargon

Wat - Temple complex

Ubosot - Main prayer hall

Virhan - Assembly hall

Chedi (stupa) - Sacred structure containing relics of Buddha, or an important monk or king

Prang - Conical shape tower inspired by the Khmer style